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Visite de Gran Cruz - Dalva et ses grands Portos Blancs à l'honeur

Publié le 30 août 2018 à 9:15
21st of August 2018 our travel starts with Gran Cruz and especially with the great Whites of the Dalva brand. Thank you Jorge Dias and Elsa Couto Dalva Dry White 10 years (beginning of 2018 bottling) Deep gold, pronounced with fine herbal scents, almonds, some saltiness and a touch of orange marmelade, caramel and apple. Fresh, intense, with ethereal aery feeling, going on with off dry palate, of medium acidity, digest. Some structure is brought up by phenolics that feel like orange peel. Lean, savory, with notes of baked apple, spices and almonds, it lingers with some saltiness glints on the long finish. Dalva dry White 20 years (end of 2017 bottling) Deep, seducing, pronounced with notes of honey, caramel, butterscotch and toasted hazelnuts, it also shows roasted figs and lots of spices, such as white pepper and cumin. Medium sweet, medium acidity, spicy, generous, still balanced with the sugar, its silky texture envelops the intense aromas, of high complexity. Again figs, spices, almonds, driven to the long, clean finish, that gives salivating feeling by its both bitter and candied spicy zests notes . Dalva White dry 40 years (end of 2017 bottling) Profound and elegant nose offering a deep rancio aroma with earthy notes of mashrooms, dried leaves, still keeping on fresh, evoking dried mint, almonds and other nuts, a touch of smoke and noble tobacco. Off dry to medium, high perception of the acidity enhanced by the fine volatile, texture is creamy, the wine shows generous, spicy, with some structure as a slight tannic feeling. Fantastic balance between texture and the complex flavours of marmelade, spices, curry, pepper, tobacco they all create a complex tissu bind with noble rancio, of a high level of umami perception creating salivating, finishing length. Two White Colheitas, one from Cruz 2009 ( end of 2007 bottling) with ripe, jammy fruit and tropical notes, sweet marmelade, a luscious wine in the style of the rich 2009 year, with sweetish balance, in favour of the richness and generosity. Second one 2007 Dalva (beginning of 2018 bottling) more delicate, smoky expression evoking the tobacco, almonds, chocolate and nuts brittle. Medium sweet, with tonic acidity, balanced, digest, keeping a tannic touch, like a slight bitterness coming with zesty punch. The Golden White series (all fresh bottlings) The freshly released '89 Tobacco, toasty almonds, amaretti, chocolate spices, aromatic herbs, a real melting pot of complex scents bind by subtle smokiness. Medium sweet, with a perception of vibrant acidity that structures the palate, a juicy, with a high level of complexity: tea oolong, tobacco, chestnuts, long, savoury with fine rancio already lingering on the finish. Golden White '71 Concentrated with bright volatile on the nose, giving fresh feeling, than some ceder and cep mushroom, dried leaves come along with candied apple, some quince paste, seasoned with a touch of saltiness that evokes the soy sauce. Off dry to medium balance, concentrated in acidity that harmoniously diminishes the perception of sweetness, clean and lean, taking the same aromatic panel as the nose, to a delicious, long and savoury finish. Golden White '63 Deep, fresh, with almonds, spices, pepper and ginger. Some soy sauce and tobacco notes interlace with great volatile, creating a fine ethereal feeling, with a lot of energy despite sweeter impressions of candied orange peel and chocolate. Délicate, with silky texture, high level of acidity, still generous, with spices, tertiary fruits from such extraordinary deliberate oxidation, long, filled with umami taste and noble bitterness reminding chocolate coated orangettes. The 2015 Vintage Dalva tasted last November in Paris, during the Port Summit, showed: Discreet, with deep dark fruit, cocoa beans notes interlaced with flowery glints. Palate is sweet, juicy and silky, with integrated aguardente, in a digest, elegant manner, driven by juvenile freshness. Fruit seems more intense on the palate, completed by spices such as cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, tannins are crunchy, of a high level, but well integrated, finish is long minty, balsamic. Ment to age for the next 30 years and more. Now it looked already more open, with concentrated scents of chocolate, black currant, mint and liquorice on flowery background. The aguardente feels well integrated, the palate is fresh, despite sweet character, with high tannins, medium plus acidity and juicy texture with lots of spices, dark fruit, cinnamon, cloves, liquorice to the peppery, chocolat like finish. 30 years or plus. The menu Tuna and tomato tartare and Gin tonic flavoured with original Quinta do Ventozelo Botanicals: juniper, lemon, coriander, lemon thyme, Portuguese thyme, lavender, cornflower and mint. Marinated sea bass and a zesty, peachy Quinta do Ventozelo Viosinho, with flowery notes and creamy palate, green apple and citrus peel giving punch on the salivating finish. Portuguese Foie gras terrine with peaches marinated in Port and orange, paired with Cruz 10 years old Tawny port which felt rich and intense, between candied fruits, marmelade and lots of spices, luscious, with chocolate like mouthfeel, smooth tannins and soft acidity, in sweetish flavor profile. Good introduction. Bacchalau a Gomes de Sà, surprisingly matched with red, another chef???s « creation » but this time from Ventozelo ???? field blend based on Alicante Bouchet, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Amarela, with body to meet the bacchalau and freshness to refresh it. Veal from the Minho, white carrot purée, dead trumpets, old port reduction and Dalva Grande Reserva 2014, a blend of Touriga National, Franca and à hint of Sousao. Biscuit and coffee dessert with Dalva 1997 Colheita, perfect match as the wine shows coffee scents and toffee aromas in a fresh, balsamic way, combined with figs and dates, spiced with oriental flavours. Sweet, of high acidity generous, with rich texture, the whole in such a digest and harmonious style, with firm tannins and long, warming spicy finish. Lusty introduction to the 1954 Madeira from Henriques&Henriques, what a meal!

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